Articles

Budget Studio Lighting 30Ls

Many think that setting up a photo studio at home is an expensive pleasure. It certainly is if we want professional studio lights, but for beginners they're not affordable. Therefore today I will tell how to purchase for about 60$ a simple flash and adapt it for home-studio photography. The article will also be useful for those who need an additional cheap studio flash light.

Camera Flash.

For home needs, you don't need to buy expensive studio flash, a camera flash will suffice. Any camera flash can also be operated on a stand. The biggest plus of a camera flash is its size, compactness, operation without 220V power, cheapness. The biggest minus is the inability of continuous light, low power, but to shoot indoors, in sunlight and at night, this power will be completely sufficient. During the day when the sun is shining, it will be harder, because the power might not be enough. In such a case, the flash should be used without diffusers and as close as possible to the subject being photographed.
Let's assume you are already a sufficiently advanced user who has a digital SLR camera and a camera tripod. Further you will need the following items:

Flash.


We need a light source. The cheapest I've found is this model:  BY-24ZP Automatic Electronic Flash. A real budget option for 18$ with delivery to Latvia. The only minus is that there's no ability to adjust power. As I mentioned, the purpose of the article is to show the cheapest, so with several shortcomings you'll have to live and get around them. The flash's inability to adjust power can be gotten around with several tricks. The first is probably distance. The further the flash will be from the object, the less light will reach it. In cases when full power is needed, I recommend using silver diffusers or not using any diffusers at all, when you don't need to worry about power, I recommend using white diffusers. You can also regulate power with translucent gray folders (available at stationery stores), from which you cut the needed size caps for the flash. These homemade gray filters will absorb part of the light. You can put several together, only need to make sure the flash doesn't overheat. Let it ventilate. My favorites are for light passing through, not reflecting. If the specific flash is not available, you can find others, but slightly more expensive in this online store.
If your budget allows, there's an option to buy this model with power adjustment: GN32M Rated External Camera Flash for 58$. These are the simplest flashes without TTL modes that I recommend using as I describe. If you want to buy a flash for reportage photography, these still won't be suitable for that.

Light Reflector.


In a budget situation, you can also get by without a light reflector. Direct light at white walls or white ceiling. If your hands aren't crooked, you can make a panel from foam plastic or some other hard white material, where you direct the flash's light, this way the light will reflect and reach the subject. But if you want something convenient for carrying, I recommend buying reflectors intended for photography. The cheapest I've found online are these two:  Translucent Flash Reflector Umbrella for 7$ or Silver Flash Reflector Umbrella for 10$.

Flash Holder.

You also need holders designed for holding the reflector and flash: Camera Flash Mount (Hot Shoe) for 7$ or slightly better Flash shoe for 9$. There is also available this kit together with a reflector.
 

Camera Synchronization.

The next task is to get the flash to work synchronously with the camera from a distance. The cheapest way is a long cord, but as you know different flashes have different contacts, and for the specific mentioned ones there are none at all, therefore it's necessary to buy a light synchronizer: Remote Slave Trigger for 12$ and with the camera's built-in flash, putting it on manual mode at the lowest power, trigger the slave. On the light synchronizer there's a small sensor that when detecting the flash's light pulse sends it to the flash to fire. This is a very good option if your camera has a built-in flash, which you can turn on in manual mode. In daylight outdoors this won't work, because the sun will be too strong for the sensor to detect the flash in bright daylight.
 

Radio Trigger.

To still make everything easier and not worry more about whether the flash will catch the sync properly, for our budget kit I will add one expensive item - radio synchronizer: Radio Slave Flash Remote Trigger for 17$ or Wireless Flash Trigger with Remote for 18$. Both items do the same thing, differing only in build. If the second one is meant more for flashes, the first one can also more easily connect to studio flashes. If finances don't stretch that far, you can get by with just the light synchronizer, but then the camera's built-in flash must be in manual flash mode.

Contacts.

When combining radio triggers with synchronization contacts, you need to carefully check what contacts each has and what comes in the kit, because there will always be something you need to buy additionally.
If you take the first trigger, then cord nr. 4 will be from 2.5mm Male to PC Male contact, but cord 2 is 3.5mm Male. Therefore you would need to buy adapter nr. 3 3.5mm Femail to 2.5mm Femail, but I couldn't find such. Therefore adapter nr. 3 we will replace with two adapters  3.5mm Male to 2.5mm Female Audio Adapter  and 3.5mm Femail to 3.5mm Femail (looks exactly like nr. 3.), which can be bought at Rimi and other stores (the first cord can also be found here).
When buying the second trigger, there might be a similar situation, but since I haven't held it in hand, I don't know.



Strobists (Strobist).

There are professional and amateur photographers who in their daily work use only camera flashes for lighting. Such people call themselves strobists. They have adapted their flashes for all life situations and made/purchased various accessories, reflectors, attachments, modifiers etc. One of the most powerful strobist resources is http://www.strobist.blogspot.com.
On this page you can find tutorials, technical innovations for strobists, professional behind-the-scenes and much more.
One of the most famous pro strobists is Joe McNally.
 

Conclusion.

Here's also a good option, how for about 30Ls at home you can start working with one light and get studio quality photos.  Backgrounds can be made yourself, look in construction material stores. For example, you can buy a large roll of foil for background. Over time you can add reflectors, additional lights and various accessories.
When all this is purchased, it's time to learn. Full internet with video tutorials and tutorials.
Further everything depends on your fantasies and creativity.


 

 


Comments

23.andreart  2012-02-12 21:26:53
the tripod used in the picture is the usual studio light stand. you can also use a camera tripod, but then it won't be exactly where to insert the umbrella. if you buy from China worth $1300, then you'll also need to add 30% customs
22.rupucs  2011-09-21 11:52:28
Does the wireless flash trigger support old type flashes - on contacts voltage ~200V? Maybe there are some specific known ones. I'll put this old one and a Nikon camera (supported), but wouldn't want to break the wireless flash unit.
21.Natalija  2011-07-07 21:14:49
Hello! I'm very happy that there is someone to ask! Thanks! I want to order goods from China. (Total amount is $1298.20. 20 kg) I would like to know how much it will approximately cost with customs taxes. Maybe you can give some advice. Thank you in advance, Natalija
20.Arach  2010-11-02 20:19:49
So tell me, what are those special tripods that have an end like a pencil? On my tripod you can put a camera, but certainly not such a device...
19.RmK  2010-10-24 17:26:07
And what kind of tripod can be used for this described kit? How should you generally choose a tripod, are there any nuances? Maybe you can write a specific link?! Thanks!
18.andre  2010-10-15 15:27:31
triggers are divided into 3 types: receiver and transmitter, the third type is where both functions are in one trigger and it works either together or changes with a switch. The transmitter goes on the camera and the receiver goes on the flash. Further everything depends on how many cameras and how many lights will be used for shooting. If with one camera and three lights, then you need one transmitter and three receivers, but you can also try to get by with one receiver. For example, if shooting happens in a closed room where daylight doesn't come in and for the other two lights there is a possibility to synchronize by the flash, thereby triggering one light with the trigger, the others will trigger from the first light's flash. But from experience I say that it doesn't all go that smoothly because often sunlight interferes with capturing the flash
17.igors  2010-03-11 21:50:05
Thanks for the article. Question, if I want to connect multiple flashes: the existing flash that works wireless, and buy an additional cheaper one. What would be the correct synchronization method? It would be simpler for the second flash to buy a light synchronization. But if I don't want to synchronize with light? I would need to order two triggers with receivers?
16.kristaps  2010-01-20 12:45:43
I have 285 HV, works like crap, 2x has properly flown to the ground, but everything's ok. Maybe you, andrej, had some kind of bad experience :D p.s now thinking to get yungnuo yn460, also cheap and adjustable power + decent looks ;)
15.Janbo  2009-12-30 03:08:01
Exactly what was needed for a long time. But andreart, you forgot to mention the tripod, the bracket/flash holder is there, but no tripod.
14.EdgarsFoto  2009-12-29 10:02:54
To hmmm. Why wouldn't it hold the flash? Judging by the picture it looks quite sturdy. :)) I myself currently for home use use such a setup (only much more expensive), but so I wouldn't have to use up Nikon SB900 resources I'm going to order YN460 Hot shoe Flash Speedlight (Price Ls20). In real life I've held it in my hand and it performs its functions. Good article :)
13.arvis  2009-12-28 22:04:09
what's the difference - if the umbrella is white on both sides, black outside and inside white, or with foil?!
12.hmmm  2009-12-21 13:57:49
hmmm... will that flash holder hold a flash with a trigger (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5277~r.53328828)
11.andreart  2009-12-18 16:08:43
it's free because it's very slow
10.Rolands  2009-12-17 22:35:50
Thanks for the article, seems quite useful. Only I'm not entirely sure about that dealextreme. Is the delivery to LV really free of charge? (Can you tell from experience?)
9.Mārtiņš  2009-12-17 16:16:17
Finally someone writes about it in Latvian! Thanks!
8.andreart  2009-12-16 18:22:05
Vivitar 285hv I don't recommend. It died on me very quickly. if comparing Vivitar 285hv with Vivitar DF400MZ, then the latter is smaller, more convenient, more powerful, TTL, built-in sync eye and only $10 more expensive ;)
7.TenisD  2009-12-16 15:06:31
Vivitar 285hv - real thing and at full power it blasts so you can walk without a shadow for a week, but now on ebay you can get those cheap ones - http://strobist.blogspot.com/2009/03/manual-flashes-two-debuts-and-adoption.html The LumoPro LP120 I also recommend, seems to me $40 free shipping on ebay. And it has adjustable strength ;) To: Kaspars check strobist.com there they also teach how to model without modeling lights - 1 step at a time ;) To: andreart - good article. I also like better to shoot through an umbrella, not the silver reflections in people's faces.
6.Elina  2009-12-16 11:39:48
Just yesterday I explored that online store. Saw all these mentioned items. For beginners there's a pretty good kit for small money. Cheaper nowhere to find, and more expensive, that's a different story and possibilities.
5.kaspars  2009-12-16 11:13:26
Good article. With regular flashes lighting is ok, but without a pilot it's really hard to work. Maybe there are recommendations which light to use well as a pilot for flashes (the one that is built-in as modeling light doesn't really work)? Someone recommended to mount a small LED flashlight on the flash. At least to see +/- light shadows, but at the same time not lose portability.
4.andreart  2009-12-16 10:40:47
I agree about vivitar. I myself have 3 vivitar flashes but they're harder to get. I recommend from vivitar Vivitar DF400MZ Digital TTL (price ~100$). of course cheaper ones will break quicker etc, but if you use it properly everything will be fine.
3.murmulis  2009-12-16 10:09:51
With regular flashes you can achieve quite a lot if you just have a brain on your shoulders and know how to use it, more than 3 isn't needed, but how much I read comments then the expensive one in the DX store is like half-manual, this doesn't have that, really make it work as it wants won't work. Better accept and buy on ebay Nikon SB-26 or SB-28 also for Canon because you'll be using it off the camera, or some Vivitar not the newest model that isn't that great but has all manual options that heart desires, wasn't that expensive either. Article turned out, but well such a middle ground, recommend to people with prejudice (which I recommend to use as I describe) something that is cheap doesn't mean it will also be good. But yeah I'm just such a grumpy today. The article is good
2.Billy  2009-12-16 08:33:57
With automation and a flash that doesn't have the ability to adjust power you really can only work in very limited conditions... Most of the time it will be impractical and a lot of headaches to achieve what you want. I also didn't really understand whether it gives constant power all the time or it decides itself? If the second variant then even deeper trouble.. In my opinion if you want to do something like this you shouldn't spare another 40USD for a flash with at least adjustable power.
1.Martins  2009-12-15 19:14:11
Read eagerly from one end to the other. I can add: often you can get by with that little that you have. Practical experience shows it's plenty enough with 2 flashes that know what slave mode is and a small plastic softbox (about 15x10cm). That is provided there is a public nearby with similar interests and someone is willing to lend out a flash.

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