Sensor Cleaning

This time we will talk about the painful dark spots on the sensor, aka dust that has gotten into the camera on the sensor (matrix). We will discuss how it gets in, how to avoid it and how to clean it.

Dust

Dust gets into the camera most often from lens changes. The first thing I would recommend is to change lenses as little as possible. When changing, keep the camera facing up, do it slowly and carefully and it's recommended not to do it in a dusty environment. Also, dust gets into the camera through body and button gaps, but that depends on the camera's own protection against them. Dust also often sticks to the back of lenses where there is contact with the camera, and when putting on the lens, part of the dust from the lens gets onto the mirror, and later also onto the shutter and sensor. Therefore when changing lenses, put the protective cap on the lens that is not being used. Recommendation to occasionally blow out the mirror with compressed air balloon (you can see it immediately by removing the lens), but under no circumstances should you blow air at the sensor, because dust gets deeper behind the microchips and over time gets back onto the sensor. That's why for cleaning it's recommended to use only such means that remove dust from the camera, not blow it deeper into the camera.
If during shooting we have established that there is a lot of dust on the sensor, it's recommended to shoot with a larger aperture (for example F/2.8). The smaller the aperture (for example F/11), the better you can see the dust. If the dust particle isn't large, then at aperture F/2.8 it's practically impossible to notice, but as soon as we shoot a nature scene with clear skies in sunny weather at aperture F/16, then the dust is very well visible.
 

Detection

Most often we see the dust when we're shooting something important, but there is an opportunity to check before shooting whether the sensor is clean or dirty. Instructions by steps:
1. From your lenses, choose one that has the greatest zoom capability (for example 70-300mm) and/or a lens where you can set the aperture to as small as possible. For example, many macro lenses can set the aperture to F/45, but for other standard lenses, F/22. Put on this lens.

2. Find a white/gray wall indoors or outdoors that is as smooth as possible.

3. Switch the camera to manual focus mode. Set the aperture to as large as possible (F/16, F/22, F/29,...) and set the lens focus to infinity.

4. Photograph the white wall from close distance (0.5-1m) without overexposing the image. Don't worry that the shutter speed can reach even several seconds.  You should get a whitish gray blurry image, which when zooming in or opening on the computer should be carefully examined. If there is dust on the sensor, then the zoomed image will look like this:

Fight

The first fight stage is prevention. So change lenses as rarely as possible, and do it carefully so we don't let in dust. If during shooting we have established that there is a lot of dust on the sensor, it's recommended to shoot with a larger aperture (for example F/2.8). The smaller the aperture (for example F/11), the better you can see the dust. If the dust particle isn't large, then at aperture F/2.8 it's practically impossible to notice, but as soon as we shoot a nature scene with clear skies at aperture F/16, then the dust is very well visible. The built-in dust removal system in cameras works satisfactorily. It can knock off some dust, but not all. And remember that knocked off dust stays in the same place in the camera and waits for the appropriate moment to return to your frame.
Cleaning is best left to professionals at Canon center (IB SERVISS Maskavas 40, tel. 67204080). Only cleaning can cost 20-30 Ls and you can get the camera back after several days. If you still end up changing lenses often, then you can clean the sensor yourself. But then you must read the entire article and comments, because missing something can damage your photo equipment. To clean yourself, you will need to spend additional funds for cleaning materials and take the risk of damaging equipment. Before you start cleaning the sensor, you must definitely charge the camera battery and it's recommended to use original batteries. There have been cases when due to power failure or careless user action during cleaning, the shutter and mirror closed with the cleaning instrument inside the camera. All of this can end up with replacement of the mirror mechanism, shutter and even the sensor's front filter. Always try dry cleaning first and if possible such cleaning where the sensor isn't touched, and only if the dirt isn't removed, then resort to wet cleaning, because too frequent cleaning with touching the sensor can scratch it. If choosing wet cleaning, definitely make sure that the cleaning liquid matches your camera sensor, because incompatibilities can occur, as a result of which the cleaning liquid removes the protective layer from the sensor along with the dust. Links about liquids and sensors: http://photosol.com/cameras_bymfg.html and http://bythom.com/cleaning.htm
Be careful and all responsibility for equipment during cleaning is on you and no warranty will save. Further will follow a video of what I clean with and how cleaning approximately happens:
 

Video

Products

Brush - can be purchased at any art supplies store. You need to buy a quality one made from natural materials. Very carefully and for a long time you need to wash it so no powder remains in the bristles!!!
Unfortunately, electric brushes are not available for purchase in Latvia yet. You can read about them here -> www.visibledust.com
Sensor Swab products can be purchased here -> www.reidlimaging.eu
Wet and dry brushes, balloons and other cleaning supplies can be bought in Latvia at MasterFoto store -> http://www.mdfoto.lv/?do=0&in=1&inc=3

Table

Two tables about what liquids and what means should be used for a specific camera model.
 

Camera	First Level	Second Level	Third Level	Fourth Level
D1, D1h, D1x, D2h, D2hs, D2x, D50, D70, D100, D200, all Fujifilm bodies	Blower bulb	Sensor Brush (or Arctic Butterfly)	Sensor Swab 2 with Dust Aid Ultra Clean (or Eclipse)	Sensor Swab 2 over wet with Methanol, then repeat third level
Kodak Pro 14n, SLRn	Blower bulb	Sensor Brush (or Arctic Butterfly)	Sensor Swab 3 with Dust Aid Ultra Clean (or Eclipse)	Sensor Swab 2 over wet with Methanol, then repeat third level
D2xs, D70s, D40, D40x, D80	Blower bulb	Sensor Brush (or Arctic Butterfly)	Sensor Swab 2 with Dust Aid Ultra Clean (or E2)	Nikon cleaning
D90, D300, D5000	In-Camera Sensor Cleaning	Sensor Brush (or Arctic Butterfly)	Sensor Swab 2 with Dust Aid Ultra Clean (or E2)	Nikon cleaning
D700	In-Camera Sensor Cleaning	Sensor Brush (or Arctic Butterfly)	Sensor Swab 3 with Dust Aid Ultra Clean (or E2)	Nikon cleaning
D3, D3x	Blower bulb	Sensor Brush (or Arctic Butterfly)	Sensor Swab 3 with Dust Aid Ultra Clean (or E2)	Nikon cleaning

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